Exchanging chip in V7

[fratres]

I recently bought a modded PAL V7, not knowing which chip was inside. When I opened it up there was a bad surprise waiting for me: a chip with Magic III and smiley was installed, using an UBICOM-chip so it seems to me it´s not even an original, but a clone Magic. Now after many annoying hours of replaying after several freeze screens in different games, i am wondering if I could exchange the chip by myself rather easily. I have no soldering experiences, but thought maybe some of the cables could remain inside so the installation might be easier than on an unmodded console. Does anyone know if an installation of a Crystal, Infinity or maybe just a Duo2 could made rather easily or uses same solderpoints on the MB? Tried to check some installation diagrams, but is still rather hard for me to estimate the effort. And a professional install is too expensive over here.

[seaneyb2003]

hey,

Unlucky with the ps2 mate that sucks, its really simple most of the wires will be fine all you have to do is resolder them on the chip and take a few of the back of the motherboard too. I would either replace them with a infinity or duo2 depends on your price range.

[fratres]

Thanx seaneyb2003, gives me a good feeling that not everything´s lost. Already thought of selling it, what a shame for a V7. Now I want to exchange the chip and compared the installation diagrams of Crystal, Infinity, Duo2 and Magic 3, and the results: if I don´t need to desolder the now unused wires on the MB , but only insulate their ends, and if different ground connections don´t matter, it´s only a few wires that need to be changed or added:

Crystal: installing SX, TO, 3V3 and changing the W-wire-point
Infinity: installing Y, SX, 3V3 and changing the W-wire-point
Duo2: installing S, PWR, maybe change ground?

My question: could anyone tell me if these installs have different difficulties? Thougt maybe the Y-wire of the Infinity is not too easy? And PWR for Duo2 does not look too easy either. And then the S-wire of the Magic is very close to the SX-wire of Crystal and Infinity, could I leave the wires at their old solder-points? Z-point of Magic 3 also very near to TO-point of Crystal. And finally:
what is about the W-wire? Has a total different point in the Magic 3 install, could I leave it there or do I need to solder the wire to new points?
Sorry for all these detailed questions, but I am lost without help, and for all you pro-installers I hope they should´t be difficult to answer at all. Here is a Magic 3-installation diagram as reference (though not my install and big picture, sorry):

http://www.gamefreax.de/GF_Page/modchips/playstation2/Magic3/v7/Magic3.htm

Thank you so much for any help!!!

[seaneyb2003]

U wont need to change the sx scex or s wire at all it should be the same on any ps2 modchip.

As for power you will need to change it unless you get a duo 2 caus they run on +5v like the magic chip does. All other chips run on 3v3.As for gnd/ground you dont need to change it.

I would advise you to take the extra wires of as the electric current can make a magnet force and could do damage to the motherboard. If you feel uncomfortable with installing a chip ask someone you know or a modchipper im sure they wouldnt ask much for such a simple job.

[fratres]

Seaneyb, thanx a lot for helping me out! So do you think if I use a Duo2 (btw, are there any reports on problems and are there any major functions except non-flashability, autoboot and homebrew-stuff that duo2 does not have compared to MI/Crystal?) I could just connect the needed wires (including S-wire and PWR), and everything works? Did you check the Magic-Install-Link I posted? S has a different soldering point, you think that doesn´t matter? And could I possibly leave the spare wires in and just cut them directly above the MB-connection-point? And what about the W-wire of Crystal and MI, would I have to change my old W-wire-point?
Of course you are totally right that I should ask someone to do the install, but I don´t know anyone with soldering experiences personally, and the pro-installers over here don´t accept used chips and charge full installation fee even if wires are already installed. And also it´s kind of a challenge to do it yourself, don´t you think? So if you could possibly answer my questions? Thank you so much!

[seaneyb2003]

that pictures actually wrong it doesnt matter where u put that wire if its connected to the brown reisistor or the black capacitor because there both conected together. Duo2 is a good cheap replacement and you wont need to change many wires. Well if you can send a ps2 to england i do it for you.

[fratres]

Hey, thank you for your offer, shipping costs are unreasonable high though, and the more details you teach me the more I get the impression I should change the chip myself. But thank u anyway! Tend to the Infinity or Crystal (cause everybody recommends them), but still not sure about the W-wire. If I could leave it there I might get a Crystal, so I do not need to worry about the Y-wire. Is Z-point same point as TO (the big solder point directly to the left of the Magics Z-MB-connection)?

[seaneyb2003]

just take it apart and do it then no point asking all these questions caus ur gonna get mixed up doing it caus ur thinking thats that and oh somethings gone wrong, just follow the diagrams you be fine

I like the duo 2 but otherwise id use matrix infinity

[fratres]

Sorry seaneyb, reading through my questions I do realize I really punished you with a hell bunch of unreadable detail-stuff that must be f* annoying. Forgive me, m8. I just wanted to sort out if any micro-soldering on the mb is necessary or if it´s more the bigger points that need to be connected. So maybe if I decide to put in a MI I may ask the W-wire question once again in the forum, but for now I spare you my newbie-trash.
Thank you very much for your effort and your patience, you have been a big help!
I read the comments of the others on your installs in the Picture-Thread, felt disappointed that they criticized your wire-lenght etc. For me you are close to heroism, getting to work a modded PS2 by yourself!

[spedmetal]

The TO point for the CC is not electronically equivalent to the Magic 3's Z point.

The Magic 3's S point is the same as the CC's SX point and Infinitys SCEX point and like seaney said all chips have the same SCEX point.

I cant tell you for sure if the W point on the Magic 3 is electronically equivalent to the W point on the CC or MI. I do remember once trying to find an alternate #5 point for the Apple Pro which is the same as the Magic 3's W point and was unable to locate one, so I would have to say they are different but dont quote me on that. I might be doing an install on a V7 tonight. If I do I'll check it out for you.

EDIT:Now that I think about it I can tell you right now the Magic's W point is NOT electronically equivalent to the MI or CC's W point. On the CC and MI the W point is a BIOS point on the Magic 3 the W point is a CDX point.

I would also recommend that you have a pro do this. Waiting and saving money so you can have it done right is better then a dead console.

[Warlock]

Originally Posted by spedmetal

I would also recommend that you have a pro do this. Waiting and saving money so you can have it done right is better then a dead console.

Well put Spedmetal

[seaneyb2003]

but if you got some soldering knoledge its cool. Just take your time and look at where each wire is going.

About the installs i couldnt really care it was 1 persons oppinion and to be honest if it worked i dont give a damn its not like you can see it. Ive done plenty of installs and seen alot lot worse hehe.

[fratres]

Hey Sped,
thanks a lot for your detailed info, now everything´s answered. To be honest I already hoped you might interfere and give some definite answers, just didn´t dare to PM you and bother you with my newbie-probs.

Saving the money and getting a pro to do it is possibly the best option, but somehow I kinda licked blood.

And as Duo2 obviously doesn´t need any change on the mb (it´s 5V, isn´t it, as lufcfan once asked?) and as TO (CC) and 3V3 don´t look difficult either, it´s only Y (MI) and W that might cause problems. They are already covered with tin AFAIK, so maybe I should give it a try (CC to avoid Y?).